The neighborhood in Seoul where Japanese-language signs blend in most naturally is not Myeong-dong or Itaewon. It is Dongbu Ichon-dong in Yongsan-gu, centered on Ichon Station on Line 4 — a quiet residential district of apartment complexes and shopping arcades that almost no tourist visits. And yet people have called this neighborhood 리틀 도쿄 (Little Tokyo) for nearly 60 years. Why here, of all places? And which restaurants have survived all that time? Here is the full picture.
The short answer
- Dongbu Ichon-dong became Seoul's largest Japanese residential enclave in three steps: the 1965 normalization of Korea-Japan diplomatic ties → foreigner apartment complexes in the 1970s → the school bus route of the Japanese School in Seoul.
- The defining trait of the restaurant scene here: they are not behind flashy signboards — they are down in the basements. The underground floors of Shindonga Shopping Center, Rex Shopping, LG Plaza, and Pungwon Shopping are, for all practical purposes, this neighborhood's dining district.
- The long-running places that remain are half Japanese, half Korean — with a strong dessert side. The pillars: Hanyang Snack (1987), Suzurantei (1998), and the 20-plus-year-old Dongbinggo patbingsu.
Why Ichon-dong? Why did the Japanese community form here?
Three forces overlapped: diplomacy, apartments, and a school bus route.
It began with the normalization of diplomatic relations between Korea and Japan in 1965. Japanese embassy staff posted to Seoul and their families needed housing, and they settled in Dongbu Ichon-dong. In the 1970s, purpose-built foreigner apartment complexes went up in the area, turning a scattering of households into a concentrated community. At the time, a neighborhood with good access to the city center and stable, modern apartment blocks was a rare combination in Seoul. Ichon-dong was among the city’s earliest planned apartment districts.
Neighborhood background — a foreign community built in three layers
- 1965 Korea-Japan diplomatic normalization. Embassy staff families begin settling.
- 1970s Foreigner apartment complexes built → a concentrated Japanese residential zone forms. Around the same time, Western-style restaurants also multiply under the influence of the nearby Yongsan U.S. military base.
- 1972 The Japanese School in Seoul opens (kindergarten and elementary, starting with 32 students). Today the campus is in Sangam-dong, Mapo-gu, but the school bus route still runs through Ichon-dong — so Japanese families with children keep choosing to live here.
In other words, the Japanese community in Ichon-dong was built on top of everyday life infrastructure, not a tourist economy. That is why it feels completely different from the “foreigner streets” of Itaewon or Hongdae. Here, Japanese signboards are not bait for customers — they are practical information aimed at actual residents. Apartment-complex hallways still carry bilingual notices in Korean and Japanese, and between the blocks you will find small grocers selling Japanese pantry staples.
Why can't you see Dongbu Ichon-dong's restaurants from the street?
Because most of them are in the basement or on the ground floor of apartment-complex shopping arcades. This neighborhood has almost no street-facing retail strips. Instead, every apartment complex comes with its own attached shopping building, and those buildings function as the restaurant district. If you come here for the first time and just walk down Ichon-ro, you will come away thinking there is nothing to eat — and you will be wrong.
It is faster to remember the names of the shopping arcades than to rely on a map.
🏢 The Dongbu Ichon-dong arcade-to-restaurant map — this table essentially is the neighborhood dining guide
| Arcade | Address (street name) | Long-running spots inside |
|---|---|---|
| Shindonga Shopping Center B1 | Ichon-ro 352 | Hanyang Snack (1987) |
| Rex Shopping | Ichon-ro 300 area | Sanukki (early 1990s) |
| LG Plaza B1 | Ichon-ro 200 | Sodam Kalguksu (Hyundai Samgyetang lineage) |
| Pungwon Shopping 1F | Ichon-ro 182 | The Lucy Pie Kitchen lineage |
| Jangmi Mansion Shopping | Ichon-dong area | Bread05 (2012) |
| Ichon-ro street level | Ichon-ro 319 | Dongbinggo (patbingsu) |
3 things for first-timers
- Head straight to the basement. If you only look at ground-floor storefronts, you will miss half the restaurants in this neighborhood.
- Go for a weekday lunch. This is a residential neighborhood. Weekday 12–1pm is livelier than weekend evenings, and many places close on Sundays.
- Some spots only take cash or bank transfer. The older the bunsik joint or dessert shop, the more likely this is. Tuck a small amount of cash in your pocket and you will not have to think about it.
Which restaurants in Dongbu Ichon-dong have locals been eating at for decades?
The nine spots below were chosen by three criteria: ① open for at least 10 years, most for 20–40 years ② walking distance from Ichon Station ③ kept alive by neighborhood regulars, not tourist traffic. I deliberately left out the newcomers. Over the past decade or so, Dongbu Ichon-dong has seen waves of trendy openings — especially around the Gongmuwon Market area — that came and went. The places residents actually keep returning to are the ones that rode out those waves.
Here are the four that best represent what this neighborhood is about.
Japanese side — everyday meals the Japanese residents actually eat
1. Suzurantei (すずらん亭, est. 1998) — The symbol of Japanese dining in this neighborhood. Chef Mitani Masaki (三谷正樹), the original owner of Mitaniya — the restaurant that sparked the 1990s Ichon-dong Japanese food boom — opened this place in 1998 and has stood in the kitchen ever since. The staff, both front and back of house, are largely Japanese, making this one of those rare spots where the restaurant side feels more “Japan” than the customer side. The menu centers on home-style set meals in bento-box format, donburi, and nabe set meals.
2. Sanukki (Rex Shopping, est. early 1990s) — The pioneer that brought donkaseu-nabe, Japanese-style donburi, and ramen to Dongbu Ichon-dong in the early 1990s. The signature donkaseu-nabe takes a fried pork cutlet, sets it in a sweet-savory nabe broth with onion, and finishes it with beaten egg — simmered until everything melds. The donburi lineup — salmon sashimi rice bowl, unagi-don, gyudon, katsudon — has stayed unchanged. Address: Ichon-ro 300.
3. Mitaniya (Samik Shopping) — Opened around the same time as Sanukki, beloved for its maguro-don (tuna rice bowl) and shrimp katsu. This is also where Suzurantei’s chef first made his name, which makes Mitaniya an essential piece of the neighborhood’s Japanese-food genealogy.
Korean side — neighborhood meals and bunsik
4. Hanyang Snack (Shindonga Shopping Center B1, est. 1987) — The sole survivor of the snack corner in the basement of Shindonga Shopping Center, which was this neighborhood’s biggest entertainment complex in the 1980s and ’90s. It opened as “Hanyang Chicken” in 1987 and took its current name in 1995. In an era when wheat-flour tteokbokki dominated the city, this place stuck with thick, chewy rice cakes — for 30 years and counting. The burdock gimbap, where braised burdock root takes up a full third of the filling, is the house icon. The fried squid is another long-running favorite.
5. Sodam Kalguksu (LG Plaza B1) — The shop itself is about 10 years old, but the lineage runs deeper. The owner once ran Hyundai Samgyetang, a neighborhood institution from the early-to-mid 1990s through the mid-2000s. After recovering his health, he opened this place. The signature is chicken-broth kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup), and in summer the menu gains a cold buckwheat noodle dish — makguksu, served in an icy chicken broth with radish kimchi, cucumber, and shredded chicken.
6. Ichon-dong Myeonok — A Korean restaurant along Ichon-ro on the National Museum side. The menu is built around galbitang (beef short rib soup), Pyongyang-style naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles), hoe-naengmyeon (cold noodles with raw fish), and king-sized mandu. For anyone coming straight from the museum who just wants a solid meal with the shortest possible walking distance, this is the move.
Dessert — the category this neighborhood has always punched above its weight in
7. The Lucy Pie Kitchen (Pungwon Shopping 1F, est. ~20 years) — A pioneer of Korea’s pie-shop culture. The headliners are banana cream pie and mint chocolate pie; the latter, loaded with peppermint whipped cream, is a textbook love-it-or-hate-it proposition. The name has evolved as the menu expanded beyond pie.
8. Dongbinggo (Ichon-ro 319, est. ~20 years) — Opened at a time when the very concept of a patbingsu specialist shop was unfamiliar. The formula is stubbornly simple: finely shaved ice, sweet red bean paste made from domestically grown adzuki beans cooked in-house, and three pieces of rice cake. That is it. Word of mouth has passed from parents to children, turning this into a neighborhood landmark that draws people from other parts of the city.
9. Bread05 (Jangmi Mansion Shopping, est. 2012) — The youngest entry on this list, but already settled in the neighborhood consciousness as “the healthy bakery.” A baker with 20 years of experience makes the dough the night before using a natural sourdough starter and lets it ferment slowly. The anchors are an an-butter (ciabatta with whole red bean paste and butter) and a sugar-dusted pandoro.
🍽️ Dongbu Ichon-dong's 9 old-school restaurants at a glance
| # | Name | Genre | Since | Signature dish | Location |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Suzurantei | Japanese home cooking | 1998 | Set meals · nabe | Arcade basement |
| 2 | Sanukki | Japanese donburi | Early 1990s | Donkaseu-nabe · katsudon | Rex Shopping |
| 3 | Mitaniya | Japanese | 1990s | Maguro-don · shrimp katsu | Samik Shopping |
| 4 | Hanyang Snack | Bunsik | 1987 | Rice-cake tteokbokki · burdock gimbap | Shindonga Shopping B1 |
| 5 | Sodam Kalguksu | Korean | 2010s (lineage: 1990s) | Chicken kalguksu · makguksu | LG Plaza B1 |
| 6 | Ichon-dong Myeonok | Korean | — | Galbitang · Pyongyang naengmyeon | Ichon-ro street level |
| 7 | The Lucy Pie Kitchen | Dessert | Early 2000s | Banana cream · mint chocolate pie | Pungwon Shopping 1F |
| 8 | Dongbinggo | Dessert | Early 2000s | Patbingsu | Ichon-ro 319 |
| 9 | Bread05 | Bakery | 2012 | An-butter · pandoro | Jangmi Mansion Shopping |
How do you fit this into a half-day?
Almost nobody comes to Dongbu Ichon-dong just for the neighborhood itself. The realistic play is to slot it between the National Museum of Korea and Ichon Hangang Park.
- Ichon Station Exit 2 — right next to the ticket gates, the Museum Nadeul-gil underground passage (about 250 meters, open 7am–11pm) connects directly to the National Museum of Korea. No need to surface and figure out where you are.
- Ichon Hangang Park is about a 13-minute walk from Ichon Station. This stretch gives you the Seoul skyline across the river toward Yeouido.
- The recommended flow: morning at the museum → lunch in an arcade basement → dessert (Dongbinggo or Bread05) → afternoon at the riverside park.
Especially for Japanese travelers
- This is not a "tourist spot that serves Japanese food." It is a neighborhood where Japanese residents eat. It is one of the very few places in Seoul where you can reasonably expect something closer to Japanese home cooking than Korean-adapted Japanese food.
- For Korean and other international travelers, on the other hand, the draw is different: this is one of the last places where the 1980s–90s Seoul apartment-complex shopping arcade culture survives intact.
- The neighborhood is quiet. Most arcade shops close by 9 or 10pm. If you are planning an evening visit, move early.
What might change
The Ichon-dong area sits in the shadow of apartment reconstruction projects and the Yongsan International Business District development. When an entire shopping arcade building disappears, the old restaurants inside disappear with it. The places in this article have held on for decades — but the next few years will be a different set of conditions. Check whether they are still open before you go.
Sources
- Dongbu Ichon-dong Old Restaurants 5 — Esquire Korea (interviews with 30-year residents, 2020) https://www.esquirekorea.co.kr/article/48246
- Japan Inside Seoul, Ichon-dong 'Little Tokyo' Blending Korea and Japan — Newspim (2017) https://www.newspim.com/news/view/20170830000226
- 'Japan Inside Seoul' — Do You Know Dongbu Ichon-dong? — Seoul Metropolitan Government Information Square https://opengov.seoul.go.kr/mediahub/9143633
- The Japanese School in Seoul — Wikipedia https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/서울일본인학교
- Ichon Station · Museum Nadeul-gil Information — National Museum of Korea https://modu.museum.go.kr/notice/71
- Suzurantei · Bread05 listings — Daum News archive / Dining Code business information
Prices and hours are based on publicly available information at the time of publication. The checked date will be updated after on-site verification.