Jjimdak shops across Korea put Andong in their names, but in Andong itself the dish belongs to one place: a 100-meter lane on the west side of the old market, where about 30 restaurants cook the same soy-braised chicken in big iron pans. You order by the whole chicken, and most of the people waiting outside are from out of town. This is Andong’s cheap, loud market side, far from its Confucian academies.
On May 18, 2026, the night before he hosted Japan’s prime minister in his hometown, President Lee Jae-myung ate at Haengbok Jjimdak with his entourage, about 40 people in all, the owner told Wikitree. The next weekend Kyungbuk Maeil reported long lines in the alley, some of them people who had come to see the president’s shop. Andong’s restaurant sales had fallen by nearly half after the March 2025 wildfires (city figures, as reported by Kyungbuk Maeil), so the lines made news.
The short answer
- Where: Andong, North Gyeongsang, inland in the southeast. KTX-Eum runs from Cheongnyangni and Seoul Station to Andong Station; the fastest Cheongnyangni train takes 1 hr 49 min (Korail, October 2026).
- The dish: 찜닭 jjimdak, bone-in chicken braised in soy sauce with potatoes, chili and glass noodles, sold by the whole chicken (enough for two).
- Where to eat: the jjimdak alley (찜닭골목) inside Andong Gu Market. Andong city lists about 30 shops, open 08:30–22:00, at around 32,000 won a chicken.
- Also see: Hahoe Folk Village (5,000 won), the free Woryeonggyo footbridge, and the free Andong Soju & Traditional Food Museum.
What is Andong jjimdak, and how do you order it?
Chicken seared over high heat, simmered in soy sauce with vegetables and finished with glass noodles. You choose only the size and the spice level. Andong city’s tourism site gives the method: about ten minutes on high heat, soy sauce, then carrots, potatoes and onions until the sauce thickens, with spinach, green onion and 당면 dangmyeon (glass noodles) added last. Maeil Shinmun notes that the alley uses sliced dried chili instead of chili powder, and thick or flat noodles. For the comparison with Chuncheon’s stir-fried chicken, see our dakgalbi vs jjimdak guide.
Menus are short and nearly identical:
- 찜닭 중 jjimdak jung — “medium,” one whole chicken, for two people.
- 찜닭 대 jjimdak dae — “large,” which Hyundai Jjimdak calls 한마리반 han-mari-ban, a chicken and a half.
- 쪼림닭 jjorimdak — the same chicken cooked down until almost no broth is left.
- Fried and garlic chicken, left over from the alley’s fried-chicken days, for less.
In 2025–26 listings for the shops below, a medium is 32,000 won and a large 48,000 won. None lists a small or half size.
Ordering in the alley
- Size, then heat: "jjimdak jung, botong-euro juseyo" (one medium, regular spice). The choices are mild (sunhan-mat), regular (botong) and spicy (maeun-mat).
- Eat the noodles first. Left in the pan, they soak up the broth and swell. A diner at Jungang Jjimdak in 2025 suggested setting some aside on a plate (apjeopsi).
- Finish with rice: order a bowl (gonggi-bap) and spoon the sauce over it.
- Eating alone? A whole chicken is the minimum, so take the rest away. Wisaeng and Yujin offer jang-geori pojang, takeout packed for a long trip.
Why did jjimdak start in Andong?
Because Andong had a market with an alley full of chicken shops that needed something new to sell. Accounts of how the dish took shape differ, and none proves who was first. The dakgalbi vs jjimdak guide tells the familiar version: fried-chicken franchises squeezed Gu Market’s whole-chicken alley, vendors answered with a braise, the alley was renamed around 2004, and a Seoul franchise took the dish national.
The market came first. Maeil Shinmun traces Gu Market to the late Joseon period, the oldest in the city, trading grain, seafood and firewood for a valley town far from the sea. Its food writer describes porters carrying mackerel about 80 km inland from Ganggu on the east coast, a two-day walk that ended here. The chicken alley grew on the market’s west side and in 2011 was designated North Gyeongsang’s only “theme alley.” It runs about 100 meters into the covered market, which also hosts a night market.
Four accounts of where jjimdak came from
- Market: the Encyclopedia of Korean Culture says Gu Market chicken shops began stewing chicken with glass noodles, chili and soy sauce in the early to mid-1980s, as a lighter option than fried chicken, and that the modern recipe settled in the late 1980s. It credits no single shop and calls the dish non-traditional.
- Students: Maeil Shinmun (2022) says vendors were feeding students from nearby universities who wanted something cheaper and more filling than fried chicken.
- Family table: Maeil Shinmun (2020) describes potatoes and noodles added in leaner decades so one chicken could feed a family.
- Joseon: Kyungbuk Maeil (2026) repeats, without checking, a claim that 전계아 jeongyea, a chicken dish in the 16th-century Andong cookbook Suunjapbang, is the prototype. A hanok hotel restaurant in the city serves it.
Shop names with wonjo ("original") in them are a claim, not a ruling.
How do you get to Andong's jjimdak alley from Seoul?
KTX-Eum from Cheongnyangni or Seoul Station to Andong Station, then a taxi or city bus downtown. Andong Station moved from downtown to Songhyeon-dong, on the city’s western edge, in December 2020, so the market is no longer a walk from the train. The new station and Andong Bus Terminal stand side by side. For city buses, check current route numbers in Naver Map or Kakao Map.
🚆 Seoul to Andong (Korail timetable data and KOBUS express bus data via data.go.kr, schedules for October 31, 2026)
| From | Route | Approx. time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cheongnyangni Station | KTX-Eum to Andong Station | 1 hr 49 min – 2 hr 6 min | 10 trains a day; adult fare 27,700 won; some trains also stop at Sangbong |
| Seoul Station | KTX-Eum to Andong Station | 2 hr 15 min – 2 hr 27 min | 5 trains a day; adult fare 29,300 won |
| Cheongnyangni Station | ITX-Saemaeul to Andong Station | 2 hr 33 min – 3 hr 58 min | 6 trains a day; adult fare 21,100 won |
| Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Gyeongbu) | Express bus to Andong Terminal | About 2 hr 40 min | 17 buses a day; Deluxe (udeung) 24,400 won, Premium 33,500 won |
| Andong Station / Andong Terminal | Taxi or city bus to Andong Gu Market | About 15 min by car | Ask the driver for Andong Gusijang |
Book KTX-Eum seats in the Korail app before weekends and festivals. For rail passes versus buses, see KTX vs KORAIL Pass vs express bus.
Where should you eat jjimdak in Andong?
The shops cook the same dish at the same price, so choose by the line and the seating. The five below have 2025–26 records, longest-running first. Several share the market building’s address, Beonyeong 1-gil 47, so search by shop name.
Wisaeng Jjimdak (위생찜닭) — The listing site Hotplace Hunter calls it a 40-year-old shop in its 2025 and 2026 roundups; that is the listing’s claim, not a record. Order jjimdak or jjorimdak (32,000 won medium, 48,000 won large), or the redder 닭볶음탕 dakbokkeumtang. Listed hours are 08:00–21:00, closed Wednesdays, which makes it a good early-lunch stop.
Jungang Jjimdak (중앙찜닭) — At Beonyeong 1-gil 51. Hotplace Hunter’s May 2025 list says it has been in the alley for over 30 years, open 08:00–22:00, closed the first and third Tuesdays. A Brunch writer who ate here in August 2025 found one medium at regular spice (32,000 won) plenty for two.
Andong Yujin Jjimdak (안동유진찜닭) — VisitKorea’s listing, updated November 2025, says locals come for the big portions, that there are so few tables a wait is normal, and that pickled radish is the only side. It also packs food for long trips. VisitKorea lists 09:00–21:00, closed Mondays; a 2026 listing says only the second and fourth Mondays, so check before a Monday visit. Drivers should use the Gu Market public lot.
Hyundai Jjimdak (현대찜닭) — For three or four people. A March 2026 listing shows 32,000 won for a whole chicken and 48,000 won for a chicken and a half, mild or spicy, open 10:00–21:00 and closed the first and third Mondays. Order one jjimdak and one jjorimdak to compare.
Haengbok Jjimdak (행복찜닭) — The alley’s most talked-about shop of 2026: its 33-year-old owner told Wikitree the president’s party of about 40 ate here on May 18. Expect a weekend line; if it is long, any shop above serves the same dish.
🍽️ Andong jjimdak alley shops at a glance (VisitKorea Nov 2025, Hotplace Hunter May 2025 and Mar 2026, Brunch Aug 2025, Wikitree May 2026)
| Shop | Korean name | Medium / large | Listed hours | Why go | Map |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wisaeng Jjimdak | 위생찜닭 | 32,000 / 48,000 won | 08:00–21:00, closed Wed | Oldest claim of the five | 📍 Open in Naver Map |
| Jungang Jjimdak | 중앙찜닭 | 32,000 / 48,000 won | 08:00–22:00, closed 1st & 3rd Tue | Longest hours | 📍 Open in Naver Map |
| Andong Yujin Jjimdak | 안동유진찜닭 | 32,000 won (medium) | 09:00–21:00, Monday closures | Locals’ pick; long-trip takeout | 📍 Open in Naver Map |
| Hyundai Jjimdak | 현대찜닭 | 32,000 / 48,000 won | 10:00–21:00, closed 1st & 3rd Mon | Groups; mild or spicy | 📍 Open in Naver Map |
| Haengbok Jjimdak | 행복찜닭 | Check menu | Check map app | President’s stop, May 2026 | 📍 Open in Naver Map |
Two other Andong foods: 간고등어 gan-godeungeo, grilled salted mackerel, sold in the market where the porters once delivered it; and 헛제사밥 heotjesabap, the soy-seasoned “fake ancestral-rite meal” served near the Andong Folk Museum by Woryeonggyo (background in our bibimbap guide). Wikitree also counts about 15 hanwoo restaurants in the galbi alley near the market.
What else is there to see near the jjimdak alley?
Hahoe Folk Village for half a day, plus Woryeonggyo Bridge and the soju museum, all a taxi ride from the market.
Hahoe Folk Village (하회마을) — A clan village of tile-roofed and thatched houses in a bend of the Nakdong River west of downtown, UNESCO-listed with Gyeongju’s Yangdong as “Historic Villages of Korea.” VisitKorea (updated June 2026) lists admission at 5,000 won for adults, 2,500 youth, 1,500 children, free for 65 and over; hours 09:00–18:00 April to September and 09:00–17:00 October to March, last entry 30 minutes before closing; free parking.
Woryeonggyo Bridge (월영교) — A wooden footbridge below Andong Dam, free and always open, according to VisitKorea (updated June 2026). Its shape echoes the hemp sandals that Yi Eung-tae’s wife is said to have made partly from her own hair for her dying husband. Cross at dusk, then eat heotjesabap nearby.
Andong Soju & Traditional Food Museum (안동소주·전통음식박물관) — In Susang-dong, across the river from downtown. VisitKorea (updated October 2026) lists it as free, 09:00–17:00, with about 660 items, including the birthday table prepared for Queen Elizabeth II’s 1999 visit, a tasting room and a shop. The drink itself is covered in our Andong soju guide.
How should you spend one day in Andong?
Arrive late morning, eat before the lunch peak, spend the afternoon at Hahoe and finish at Woryeonggyo.
- 09:18 — KTX-Eum from Cheongnyangni (or 08:57 from Seoul Station), arriving at Andong at 11:12.
- 11:30 — Taxi to Gu Market, walk the alley once, then lunch: one medium for two, noodles first.
- 12:45 — Gu Market and its salted-mackerel and soju shops.
- 13:30 — Andong Soju & Traditional Food Museum by taxi, for about 45 minutes (it closes at 17:00).
- 14:45 — Hahoe Folk Village for about two hours. From October to March, last entry is 16:30.
- 17:30 — Woryeonggyo at dusk and heotjesabap for an early dinner, then an evening KTX-Eum back to Seoul. Check return times in the Korail app.
Practical tip
Festival weekends: during the Andong International Mask Dance Festival in early October 2026, Kyungbuk Maeil reported lines throughout the alley. In early autumn, eat before 11:30 or after 14:00.
Staying the night lets you see Woryeonggyo after dark without watching the clock, and gives you a morning for Hahoe or the Confucian academies outside town.
Can you eat Andong jjimdak in Seoul?
Yes, mostly at franchises. Our dakgalbi vs jjimdak guide covers ordering, spice levels and the fried-rice finish in Seoul. For a different regional style, the Northern-style jjimdak at Manpo Makguksu appears in our Seoul mandu guide.
Related reading
More from this series: Chuncheon and dakgalbi, Korea's other chicken city, and Jeonju and bibimbap, the gochujang bowl to Andong's soy-sauce heotjesabap.
Background on the dish and the drink: Dakgalbi vs jjimdak and the Andong soju guide. Planning more train trips: KTX and SRT day trips from Seoul and where Koreans actually travel.
Sources
- Andong city tourism portal, jjimdak alley (shop list, about 30 shops, 08:30–22:00, about 32,000 won, cooking method) — https://www.tourandong.com/public/sub3/sub1_3.cshtml
- Korea Tourism Organization (VisitKorea), Andong Market Jjimdak Alley — https://korean.visitkorea.or.kr/detail/ms_detail.do?cotid=c6c265ba-7d0b-4989-ba77-5dfe0d7bac24
- Encyclopedia of Korean Culture, Andong jjimdak (1980s development, not a traditional dish) — https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Article/E0080003
- Maeil Shinmun (2022-08-11), Gu Market history, 2011 theme-alley designation, noodles and chili — https://www.imaeil.com/page/view/2022073114350698430
- Maeil Shinmun (2020-10-31), "Walking and eating Andong: jjimdak" — https://www.imaeil.com/page/view/2020103108132992832
- Maeil Shinmun (2024-10-25), salted mackerel carried from Ganggu to Gu Market — https://www.imaeil.com/page/view/2024102119183516146
- Wikitree (2026-05-20), President Lee at Haengbok Jjimdak; about 30 jjimdak shops, about 15 hanwoo restaurants — https://www.wikitree.co.kr/articles/1137396
- Kyungbuk Maeil (2026-05-25), visitors after the Andong summit; jeongyea claim — https://kbmaeil.com/article/20260525500347
- Kyungbuk Maeil (2026-10-03), mask dance festival crowds in the alley — https://www.kbmaeil.com/article/20261003500131
- Kyungbuk Maeil (2025-04-20), restaurant sales after the 2025 wildfires — https://kbmaeil.com/article/20250420500436
- Kyungbuk Maeil (2025-10-14), Andong galbi alley in front of the old Andong Station — https://kbmaeil.com/article/20251014500002
- VisitKorea data via ktriptips: Andong Yujin Jjimdak (modified 2025-11-28) — https://www.ktriptips.com/kor/food/2839858 · Hahoe Village (modified 2026-06-19) — https://www.ktriptips.com/kor/tourspot/894027 · Woryeonggyo (modified 2026-06-24) — https://www.ktriptips.com/kor/tourspot/988449 · Andong Soju & Traditional Food Museum (modified 2026-10-16) — https://www.ktriptips.com/kor/culture/130310
- Hotplace Hunter, Andong jjimdak shop listings (2025-05-17) — https://hotplacehunter.co.kr/?p=61448 · (2026-03-10) — https://hotplacehunter.co.kr/?p=86618
- Brunch (2025-08-14), meal at Jungang Jjimdak — https://brunch.co.kr/@quotation2520/185
- Trvlogue (2026-08-02, updated 2026-10-03), alley length and the Gu Market night market — https://www.trvlogue.com/ko/andong-jjimdak-alley
- Korail timetable data (Cheongnyangni, Seoul Station → Andong, 2026-10-31), via data.go.kr mirror — https://info.koreacharts.com/traintime/10005/10312/contents.html · https://info.koreacharts.com/traintime/10007/10312/contents.html
- KOBUS express bus data (Seoul Gyeongbu → Andong), via data.go.kr mirror — https://info.koreacharts.com/expressbus/NAEK010/NAEK840/contents.html
- Segye Ilbo (2025-12-15), KTX-Eum Cheongnyangni–Andong increased to 20 trips a day from Dec 30, 2025 — https://www.segye.com/newsView/20251215515034
- Asia Economy (2020-12-14), Andong Station relocation to Songhyeon-dong — https://www.asiae.co.kr/en/article/2020121408211980672