Have a coffee near Gwanghwamun on a weekend and you’ll see the square filled with flags. In the alley beside Exit 1 of Itaewon Station, flowers have been laid. Hospital intake forms now record your international age, and on the subway, phone screens are lit up with stock-trading apps. Once you know what Korea has been through since 2020, these scenes start to look a little different.

The short answer

  • 2020–2022 belonged to COVID-19. After mask rationing, QR entry logs and social distancing, all distancing rules were lifted on April 18, 2022.
  • Then came the opening of Cheong Wa Dae, the Itaewon disaster, the switch to international age, Han Kang's Nobel Prize and the Jeju Air disaster. Emergency martial law declared on December 3, 2024 was lifted within hours.
  • On April 4, 2025, the Constitutional Court ruled to remove the president, and an early election followed on June 3. As of October 2026 the related criminal trial is on appeal, and foreign visitor numbers have hit an all-time high.

2020–2026 at a glance

📅 The headline news of each year and what it left behind (as of October 2026, updated every December)

YearHeadline newsWhat you can still see today
2020COVID-19 spreads, mask rationing, Parasite wins Best PictureMasking up when sick, hand sanitizer at every entrance
2021Level 4 distancing, Squid GameKorean shows all over Netflix
2022Cheong Wa Dae opens, Gwanghwamun Square reopens, KakaoTalk outage, Itaewon disasterGwanghwamun Square, Itaewon’s ‘Memory and Safety Path’
2023Age unified to international age, Saemangeum Jamboree, Busan loses the Expo bidEvery age on paper is international age
2024Medical school quota dispute, Han Kang’s Nobel Prize, December 3 martial law, Jeju Air disasterHan Kang shelves in bookstores, the National Assembly in Yeouido
2025Constitutional Court removes the president, June 3 presidential election, APEC in Gyeongju, data leaks, KPop Demon HuntersA packed National Museum of Korea, the presidential office back at Cheong Wa Dae
2026First-instance martial law verdict, June 3 local elections, World Cup in North America, record visitor numbersBusier sights, stock talk everywhere

What happened in Korea during COVID-19? (2020–2021)

2020 — Mask rationing and Parasite

Korea’s first COVID-19 case was confirmed on January 20, 2020. When masks sold out, the government introduced maseukeu obuje on March 9, a five-day rotation that let you buy public masks at pharmacies only on the weekday matching the last digit of your birth year. The public mask system ended on July 12. From June, entering high-risk venues such as karaoke rooms and clubs meant scanning a QR code for the jeonja churip myeongbu, an electronic entry log.

On February 9 that year (local time), Bong Joon-ho’s Parasite took four Academy Awards: Best Picture, Best Director, Best Original Screenplay and Best International Feature Film. It was the first film not in English to win Best Picture.

Now in Seoul: Wearing a mask when you have a cold, and the hand sanitizer at building entrances and by the elevators, are both leftovers from this period. Korea’s box-office records are collected in Korea’s all-time box office ranking.

2021 — Level 4 distancing and Squid Game

On July 12, 2021, the Seoul metropolitan area moved to Level 4, the highest tier of social distancing, and after 6 p.m. no more than two people could gather. A dangyejeok ilsang hoebok, or gradual return to normal life, began on November 1, but cases climbed again and full reopening slipped into the following year.

Squid Game, released on Netflix on September 17, became a global hit. The following year it won Emmys for directing (Hwang Dong-hyuk) and lead actor (Lee Jung-jae).

Now in Seoul: A Korean drama on Netflix’s home screen is nothing unusual anymore. What Koreans themselves actually watch is covered in What Koreans watch: OTT and TV.


How did Korea change once the pandemic ended? (2022–2023)

2022 — Cheong Wa Dae opens, and October 29

Social distancing was fully lifted on April 18, 2022. On May 10 the presidential office moved to Yongsan and Cheong Wa Dae opened to the public, and on August 6 a larger Gwanghwamun Square reopened. On October 15 a fire at a data center in Pangyo knocked KakaoTalk out for hours, and Koreans coined katok meoktong, roughly “KakaoTalk went dead.”

On the night of October 29, ahead of Halloween, a mass crowd crush occurred in a narrow, packed alley in Itaewon. The official number of victims had been counted as 159. According to Edaily, in June 2026 the Ministry of the Interior and Safety also recognized as a victim a local merchant who had helped with the rescue and later died after suffering trauma, bringing the figure to 160. In Korea it is called the 10·29 Itaewon chamsa, the October 29 Itaewon disaster.

Now in Seoul: Beside Exit 1 of Itaewon Station, the alley where it happened became a memorial space in 2023, the ‘10.29 Memory and Safety Path’. According to the Kyunghyang Shinmun, the government’s fourth-anniversary memorial ceremony was announced for 10:29 a.m. on October 29, 2026, at Gwanghwamun Square. Safety measures for the Halloween season are in Itaewon Halloween 2026: crowd safety, and the neighborhood’s mood today is in Itaewon 2026: what came back.

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Passing through the memorial

The Memory and Safety Path is an ordinary alley, and the shops along it are open for business. If you take photos, keep it brief and focus on the memorial messages and the flowers, and keep your voice down. That's really all that's needed. Around Halloween, crowd management and access controls may be in place in this area.

2023 — International age, the Jamboree and the Expo

On June 1, 2023, the COVID-19 crisis level was lowered, and the endemic phase began in all but name. On June 28, amendments to the Civil Act and the Framework Act on Administration unified age in law and administration under man nai, international age.

In August, the World Scout Jamboree at Saemangeum in North Jeolla ran into a heatwave and operational problems, and with a typhoon on the way, every participant left the campsite on August 8. The closing ceremony took place on August 11 as a K-pop concert at Seoul World Cup Stadium. Then on November 28 (local time), in the vote to host World Expo 2030, Busan received 29 votes and lost to Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, which received 119.

Now in Seoul: The age written on hospital forms, hotel bookings and contracts is always international age. In conversation, though, a different number still turns up. The reason is in How Korean age counting works.


What happened after Korea's martial law crisis? (2024–2026)

2024 — A Nobel Prize, martial law and the Jeju Air disaster

On February 6, the government announced it would increase medical school admissions by 2,000, and trainee doctors left their hospitals. The uijeong galdeung, the standoff between the government and the medical community, carried on into the next year. Admissions for the 2026 academic year went back to the pre-increase level of 3,058, and in February 2026 the government settled on a new plan to add 490 places from the 2027 academic year. On October 10, novelist Han Kang was announced as the winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature, the first Korean to receive it.

At 10:27 p.m. on December 3, then-president Yoon Suk Yeol declared emergency martial law. Around 1 a.m. on December 4, the National Assembly passed a resolution demanding it be lifted, with all 190 members present voting in favor, and martial law was lifted at around 4:30 a.m. the same morning after a cabinet meeting. On December 14, the National Assembly passed a motion to impeach the president. In Korea this is known as the 12·3 bisang gyeeom, the December 3 martial law.

On December 29, Jeju Air flight 7C2216 from Bangkok crashed while landing at Muan International Airport, and 179 of the 181 people on board died. The Aviation and Railway Accident Investigation Board is investigating the cause. The runway at Muan International Airport has stayed closed since the disaster, and in September 2026 the closure was extended again, to December 24.

Now in Seoul: Big bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre in Gwanghwamun still give Han Kang’s books a prominent spot. For picking a bookstore, see Seoul’s big bookstores, the local view. For the aviation safety record, see Korea’s airline accident history.

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2025 — Removal from office, an early election and KPop Demon Hunters

At 11:22 a.m. on April 4, 2025, the Constitutional Court ruled, with all eight justices in agreement, to remove the president from office. In the 21st presidential election on June 3, Democratic Party candidate Lee Jae-myung won and took office the next day. A Korea–US tariff deal was reached at the end of July, and Gyeongju hosted the APEC summit from October 31 to November 1. On October 27, the KOSPI closed above 4,000 for the first time.

Incidents that reached into everyday life kept coming, too. It started with a hack of SK Telecom’s USIM data in April, followed by personal data leaks at KT, Lotte Card and Coupang. On September 26, a fire at the National Information Resources Service in Daejeon took a large share of government online services offline. Meanwhile, the animated film Kedeheon, Korean shorthand for KPop Demon Hunters, came out on Netflix in June and became a worldwide hit, and fans who wanted to see its Korean culture for themselves started showing up at museums.

Cheong Wa Dae closed to visitors on July 31, 2025, to prepare for the presidential office’s return. According to press reports, the president began working from the Cheong Wa Dae office on December 29.

Now in Seoul: According to Newsis, the National Museum of Korea drew about 6.5 million visitors in 2025, its highest ever, and the museum shop is still packed. Shopping tips are in the Seoul museum goods shopping guide. As of October 2026, the Cheong Wa Dae grounds can’t be toured freely the way they could before. Realistically, you can look around the Cheong Wa Dae Sarangchae right in front and walk the trails nearby.

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2026 — A first verdict, local elections and a record year (as of October)

On February 19, 2026, the Seoul Central District Court sentenced former president Yoon Suk Yeol to life imprisonment at first instance on the charge of leading an insurrection. Both Yoon’s side and the insurrection special counsel team appealed, and Yoon’s side maintains that he is not guilty. According to Money Today, the Seoul High Court plans to close arguments in the appeal in early November, and as of October 2026 no date has been set for the ruling.

In the 9th nationwide local elections on June 3, there were 16 races for metropolitan mayor and provincial governor (reflecting the merger of South Jeolla and Gwangju). The Democratic Party won 12 and the People Power Party won 4, and turnout was 61.0%. In Seoul, People Power Party candidate Oh Se-hoon was elected, making him the city’s first five-term mayor. At the World Cup in North America in June, Korea beat Czechia in its opening group match but finished with one win and two losses and did not reach the round of 32.

Tourism set a new record. The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism announced that this year’s foreign arrivals passed last year’s annual record (about 18.94 million) around October 27. The stock-market fever has kept going as well, and people checking trading apps on the subway are now a common sight.

Now in Seoul: Gwanghwamun Square and the plaza in front of Seoul City Hall still take turns hosting rallies and festivals. For the numbers, see Korea tourism record 2026 and Samjeon-Nix fever and Korea’s retail investors. For political parties and protest culture, see Korea’s political parties and protests.

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8 : 0
Constitutional Court removal ruling, April 4, 2025 (unanimous)
79.4%
Turnout, June 3, 2025 presidential election
61.0%
Turnout, June 3, 2026 local elections
12 : 4
2026 metropolitan and provincial heads (Democratic Party : People Power Party)

Is it OK to travel to Korea right now?

Yes. The political situation that began in the winter of 2024 moved step by step through a National Assembly resolution, a Constitutional Court ruling, an election and trials, and the whole time the subway, tourist sites and shops kept running as usual. The one change travelers actually notice is the occasional weekend rally downtown.

What has really changed for travelers: ages on paper are international age, the presidential office is back at Cheong Wa Dae, and the sights are busier than ever. In practice, competing for bookings is a bigger factor than the political news.

Worth checking before you go

  • On Saturday afternoons, roads around Gwanghwamun, City Hall and Yeouido may be closed for rallies. The subway is easier than the bus.
  • You can tour the National Assembly building in Yeouido if you apply in advance.
  • Travel rule changes from November onward are collected in Korea travel changes, November 2026.

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Sources

  • Ministry of Justice, "Amendments to the Civil Act and Framework Act on Administration unifying age to international age take effect June 28, 2023" https://moj.go.kr/bbs/moj/189/566088/artclView.do
  • Nobel Foundation, 2024 Nobel Prize in Literature announcement https://www.nobelprize.org/prizes/literature/2024/press-release/
  • Korea Policy Briefing, "Cheong Wa Dae visit applications top 2.31 million" (2022) https://www.korea.kr/news/policyNewsView.do?newsId=148901569
  • Seoul Metropolitan Government Mediahub, "The changing face of Gwanghwamun Square" https://mediahub.seoul.go.kr/archives/2013741
  • Seoul Metropolitan Government Mediahub, "Social distancing fully lifted from the 18th" https://mediahub.seoul.go.kr/archives/2004303
  • Gangnam-gu Office, public mask purchase guide (2020) https://www.gangnam.go.kr/board/article/4371/view.do?mid=fm0503
  • Electronic Times, "123 days from the December 3 martial law declaration to removal from office" (April 4, 2025) https://www.etnews.com/20250404000289
  • Edaily, "Interior ministry revises Itaewon disaster victim count from 159 to 160" (June 26, 2026) https://edaily.co.kr/News/Read?mediaCodeNo=257&newsId=03539126645485656
  • Kyunghyang Shinmun, report on the fourth-anniversary Itaewon memorial events (October 22, 2026) https://www.khan.co.kr/article/202610222115015/
  • Kyunghyang Shinmun, report on the 'Memory and Safety Path' billboard (October 23, 2025) https://www.khan.co.kr/article/202510231654001/
  • Hankook Ilbo, report on the return to Cheong Wa Dae and changes to visits (December 18, 2025) https://www.hankookilbo.com/news/article/A2025121814230002166
  • Money Today, report on the insurrection appeal trial schedule (October 15, 2026) https://www.mt.co.kr/society/2026/10/15/2026101519053918011
  • Kyunghyang Shinmun, "Special counsel appeals Yoon Suk Yeol's first-instance life sentence" (February 25, 2026) https://www.khan.co.kr/article/202602251844001/
  • Korea Policy Briefing, "President Lee Jae-myung's first day at Cheong Wa Dae" https://www.korea.kr/news/policyNewsView.do?newsId=148957272
  • Weekly Kyunghyang, "Final presidential election turnout provisionally 79.4%" (June 3, 2025) https://weekly.khan.co.kr/article/202506032155001
  • MTN, "Muan Airport runway closure extended another three months, to December 24" (September 29, 2026) https://news.mtn.co.kr/news-detail/2026092910132337737
  • Television Academy, Squid Game awards https://www.televisionacademy.com/shows/squid-game
  • Asia Economy, report on the June 3 local election results (June 4, 2026) https://view.asiae.co.kr/article/2026060409594459665
  • Newsis, "Oh Se-hoon becomes Seoul's first five-term mayor" (June 4, 2026) https://www.newsis.com/view/NISX20260604_0003656058
  • Newsis, report on National Museum of Korea visitor numbers for 2025 (January 2, 2026) https://www.newsis.com/view/NISX20260102_0003463626
  • Al Jazeera, South Africa stun South Korea to reach World Cup knockouts (June 25, 2026) https://www.aljazeera.com/sports/2026/6/25/south-africa-stun-south-korea-to-reach-world-cup-knockouts-for-the-first-time
  • Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, announcement that the annual foreign visitor record was broken (October 27, 2026); for the figures, see the sources list in SeoulWindow's "Korea Tourism Record 2026"